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Varanasi or Benaras is the holiest city in India. It was founded 5000 years ago by a disciple of Shiva, the god of destruction that came forth from his neck. It is one of the oldest cities in the world with traditions and cultures that are exhilarating and old as time. The things to do in Varanasi are unlike anything you have experienced before. Not even a seasoned traveler like me was prepared for the overwhelming mixture of color, smell and taste of this city.

The city is based on the banks of the river Ganga, the river that fell from heaven and into the hair of Shiva before flowing through this fertile land. Sadhus wearing orange langots with grey ash covering their foreheads come here to meditate on the river and wash their sins away. The smell of incense and an electric energy that cannot be explained infuse the city.

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Location, Commute, Temperature

Varanasi is located in the state of Uttar Pradesh, 300 kilometres (186 miles) from the state’s capital of Lucknow. It is easily accessible from bigger cities ike Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkate, Lucknow and Khajuroa by daily flights or an overnight train journey. The closest airport to Varanasi is the Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport which is 30 minutes from the city. The temperatures here reach unbearable digits in the summer so it is advisable to come here between the months of November and March when the average temperature is between 10 and 20 degree celsius. The destination is not for the faint of heart and is an adventure in itself.

My guide to 3 day itinerary and things to do in Varanasi takes you through time as we visit the place where Buddha gave his first sermon, walk to a temple covered with gold and witness a huge celebration of the Hindu religion on the banks of the Ganga. After you are done in Varanasi if you are planning to continue your trip, check out my post on the Insider’s Guide to Top 25 Things to do in Jaipur.

Day One

6am: Sunrise Boat Ride

Start off your first day in the city with a boat ride on the Ganga at sunrise. You can access the boats through multiple ghats. Each ride cost between Rs.100 to Rs.250. This is one of the most recommended things to do in Varanasi and rightly so. The boat ride takes you along all the ghats and the palaces situated on the river. The best time to take a boat ride is between 5:30 am and 8:00 am when the sun is just coming up and the orange glow makes the river seem as if it’s on fire.

This is a city that rises early and you will be surprised to see the vendors already out and about and temples completing their early morning aarti. This is the time when the ghats are filled with sadhus and priests taking a dip in the river and offering the water to the sun as it comes up. The boat ride is the perfect way to realize how the Ganga really is where the entire city focuses and draws their energy from. After getting back, head over to one of the famous restaurants to have a hearty Indian breakfast.

10am: Walk the Ghats

Once you have your energy back and are ready, you would want to visit the ghats on the river. This is one of the most popular things to do in Varanasi to get a glimpse of the eccentric Indian culture. You will find people doing yoga, getting massages, offering prayers, bathing in the river and the occasional cricket match taking place right next to the river. Taking a dip in the water is considered very holy. I had a very interesting experience when a snake slithered past me in the water while I froze in terror. Luckily it went on its merry way before my scream could make its way out of my throat. 

The most important ghat is the Manikarnika Ghat where the dead are burned on open pyres. The easier way to explore the ghats would be to take a guide along with you who can point out their history. Out of all the things to do in Varanasi, the ghats are the best for their lively atmosphere and traditions,

Some other famous ghats are the Dashashwamedh Ghat, Assi Ghat, Munshi Ghat and Raj Ghat. Dashashwamedh Ghat is the most famous. This is where the Fire Worship takes place every evening that we will see on day two! Next head over to have some lunch and let your feet rest for a while.

3pm: Monkey temple

The Monkey temple which is dedicated to Goddess Durga is next in our Varanasi itinerary. The temple was created in the 18th century in the famous nagara style that is prominent in Varanasi. It was constructed on the ancient ruins of another temple by the queen of Bengal. The monkeys that live here guard the temple. The kund or water body next to the temple is said to be connected to the Ganga and has therapeutic properties. The images and bright red architecture are beautiful. The temple is much quieter than other famous temples and you can really take your time absorbing the atmosphere. This is one of the top things to do in Varanasi to experience the local culture.

6pm: Drink Bhang at Godowlia

One of the best things to do in Varanasi is to try out the local drinks. Bhang is a fermented milk drink infused with weed that Varanasi is famous for. The devotees of Shiva believe that they can better meditate on the god in a trance. The same bhang was used by ancient priests to go into a stupor for better meditation.

To get your dose of this delicacy take a rickshaw to Badal Thandai on Godowlia Chowk. This is a hole in the wall shop that serves both lassi and thandai infused with weed. One medium strength drink sells for Rs.50. The bhang is strong so don’t be tempted to consume more than one drink at once. This is not the same as the weed found in the west. You can expect the high to kick in about an hour by which time I recommend you be back at your hotel lounging next to the pool.

Day Two

8am: Sarnath Deer Park

For day two of our Varanasi itinerary we will start with an early trip outside the city. After Buddha gained enlightenment at Bodh Gaya, he came to Sarnath to deliver his first sermon. Due to this Sarnath is one of the four holy cities in Buddhism. Sarnath is perfect for a quick day trip outside of the hectic city center. Only 10 kilometres from Varanasi, it is a quiet park filled with trees and peace. 

Sarnath was transformed into a monastic hub after Buddha arrived here. People from far away China came here to practice Buddhism. The emperor Ashoka, one of the most benevolent kings in history favored Sarnath and erected multiple stupas, monasteries and the famous four faced lion pillar here in the 3rd century BC. This pillar now resides in the Archaeological Museum. The Mughals leveled Sarnath to the ground during the 19th century invasion. It has now been restored and made into a deer park. Some of the important sites on these grounds are the Dhamekh Stupa and monastery ruins, the archaeological museum, Mulgandha Kuti Vihar and Chaukhandi Stupa. If you are excited about history or Buddha then this would be one of the top things to do in Varanasi for you.

After getting back mid afternoon you will probably be tired and in need of a quick nap. We will later head out at 3 pm for some shopping and fun.

• Cost: Rs.100 for foreigners, Rs.5 for Indians
• Timings: 8 am to 6 pm

3pm: Shopping in Varanasi

Shopping is one of the best things to do in Varanasi. This city is a shoppers paradise. It is is famous for its Benarasi silk, glass jewellery and sweets. Make your way over to Vishwanath Lane, Thateri Bazaar, Godowlia Chowk that all lie in the same area. The area is filled with small winding lanes with outdoor shops selling everything you could need. The charm in this market is in not knowing what lies around the next corner. Start walking in any direction and make your own way as you soak in the culture, food and energy of the city. To get from one place to another, simply grab a rickshaw and hop on. The rickshawalas will know which place to take you if you are feeling a certain product and want to see more of it. 

6pm: Ganga Boat Ride and Aarti

The most quintessential thing to do in Varanasi is witness this spectacular display of religious devotion take place on the banks of Ganga. Ranked as one of the top things to do in Varanasi, the sunset boat ride is a calming and peaceful experience. Take a boat ride out to the river at sunset and witness the sun setting over the city before this ceremony unfolds before you. A little after sunset, hundreds of priests will light more than a thousand diyas. Bells across the ghats will begin to ring. Then the priests will begin to chant mantras in booming voices that can be heard for miles across the river.

The entire river is filled with hundreds of boats with people here to see the same spectacle as you. The boats are packed together and cannot move until the aarti is over. The aarti lasts for 30 minutes and is a magnificent display of old customs and traditions still followed in the city.

Day Three

10am: Ramnagar Fort

Have a lazy morning for your last day in Varanasi. For our last day in Varanasi we will visit the famous Ramnagar fort. The Ramnagar fort is the official residence of the king of Varanasi. The fort is built on the eastern ghat of the river opposite to the Tulsi Ghat. Kashi Naresh Raja Balwant Singh, the then king of Varanasi built this fort. The palace has intricately carved balconies, open courtyards and Mughal inspired architecture. The grounds are expansive and the fortifications look over the Ganga. The museum has an interesting collection of vintage cars, carriages and weapons. Ramnagar Fort is a staple in the things to do in Varanasi for its history and culture.

The funny thing about this palace is that even with so many visitors and inherent value, it seems unkempt. The gardens are overgrown with weeds and the artifacts are haphazardly thrown around. For this reason it feels like entering a ghost palace where no one has stepped foot in many years once you get inside. It’s very different from the usual clean and pristinely kept palaces and you will definitely enjoy this adventure.

• Cost: Rs.150 for foreigners, Rs.50 for Indians
• Timings: 10 am to 5 pm

1pm: Chaat tasting

Food tasting comes up as one of the most recommended things to do in Varanasi and rightly so. I can confidently say I have had some of the best Indian food in the entire world. And yet I still remember the food I had in Varanasi. The smell, the spices and the taste are unlike anything you have ever tasted before. Varanasi is famous for its chaat bhandars or food houses but the most famous of them are on Dashashwamedh Road. Kashi Chaat Center and Deena Chaat Bhandar are two highly lauded chaat bhandars.

These are hole in the wall shops where you shout your order at the man sitting behind the counter with 20 other people. Most people cant get enough and order at least 5 or 6 times. The payments are tallied and collected by a young boy after the patrons are finished eating. Be prepared because these shops are very famous and jam packed with people at the end of the day. There is hardly enough space to move at all but the food is worth it. I recommend trying 5 or 6 different dishes on the menu both sweet and salty. If you aren’t sure just copy the person next to you.

6pm: Kashi Vishwanath Temple

As our 3 day itinerary to Varanasi draws to a close, we will visit the temple that glows golden in the sun. Kashi Vishwanath Temple is an easy 10 minute walk from the chaat bhandars. Vendors selling offerings for the deity like flowers and prashad flank the road leading up to the temple. The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva, the god of destruction and patron god of the city. 800 kilos of gold cover the towers and domes of the temple. You cannot miss this Varanasi attraction from all the top rated things to do in Varanasi.

This is one of the holiest sites for Hindus and one of the 12 Jyotirlingas in India. The Jyotirlingas are 12 of the most holy places to worship Shiva. The aarti for the temple starts at 7 pm evening. Get to the temple a little earlier and explore all the smaller shrines dedicated to different gods and goddesses before the din and commotion of the aarti begins. The priests bath, color and dress the smaller shines lovingly everyday and they look beautiful.

Conclusion

Varanasi is the most vibrant and exhilarating city I have ever been to. This gem on the Indian subcontinent has gathered traditions dating back at least 5000 years that emerge in the most bizarre and beautiful ways. From the thundering Ganga aarti to chaat that melts in your mouth and a temple dripping with gold, nothing comes close to beating the experience that is Varanasi. If I had to recommend anyone a single city in all of India that captures the soul of the country, then Varanasi would be my best bet. This is one experience that needs to be added onto your bucket list right now. If you are coming to India then be sure to visit Varanasi!