I have been in Bali for 3 weeks now. The last week was the best surfing I have ever had. I have gotten into a routine of waking up and going surfing first thing in the morning. I look forward to it the most everyday.
So last week there was a forecast that there was going to be a huge wave day. 8 feet waves! When I got to the beach I saw the most perfect barrels I have ever seen. Like Teahupoo level barrels in Bali. There were very few people in the water but I paddled in to surf the smaller waves anyway.
It was the first day I got scared in the ocean because the waves were so big they were keeping me held under for 10 seconds which feels like a lifetime under water. I kept paddling around for 30 minutes trying to catch waves but after getting tumbled on one wave after another I got exhausted and came out. Even though I didn’t catch any waves it was the biggest day I have ever paddled out and it felt awesome.
The same week we had the Balinese New Year and for 2 days there was no electricity or people delivering food so I decided to do a 3 day fast instead of going out to find food in the crowd myself. My laziness knows no bounds sometimes. The actual Ne Year was pretty nice, the entire island turned off their lights so you could see all of the stars. I didn’t go to any New Years events because I was feeling exhausted but it was a very calm and soothing feeling all around. Pretty cool week all in all.